vilnius

(9am, our first car stopped about 50km from the border and we got ourselves a 700km ride to moscow with a nice latvian moustache man. that's how we like it.)

alright. now what is going on. i'm gonna try this and if it sucks too much i will switch back to my wonderful slavic language of beer drinkers, if you don't mind. so let's see what i can do, to keep you wonderpeople entertained.

now back to business. arriving to vilnius on wednesday evening with a driver who bought me some lithuanian traditional food (i wish i knew the name of it). the ones who feed you are the best. he's dropping us somewhere near the center, in a park with beach voleyball courts, where we're meeting j., originally from azerbaijan, our host. waiting with the company of lithuanian mosquitos, fun. later, when men are satisfied with the game, we're taking ridiculously long walk to our place in the coolest district of vilnius - užupis, country within a country, set by local artists. tiny bars, abandoned old buildings, bricks and a river. heaven. cous-cous, white wine & weed. double heaven.

the whole vilnius stay is kinda exhausting, we're tired of managing stuff, constantly seeking wi-fi, the sky is cloudy and we need a rest. but that doesn't stop us from exploring. old town, russian market, the oldest district with tiny wooden houses (and thoughts about buying one), long walks and a meeting with t. & l., friends from prague who just randomly appeared in vilnius at the same time. world is really a village. after the whole day of walking, we allow ourselves to have a dinner in užupis kaviné, a restaurant/café right next to the river, because for once, we can shut down the voices in our heads, constantly shouting "budget, guys, budget". mr. man goes for eggplant madness, i go for chicken kiev ( what does it even mean?) and the river flows, just like it's allowed to, according to the constitution of the užupis republic. it's calm and somehow magical, guarded by a statue of a mermaid just across the café and occasional watermen have to be careful while floating around, not to crash to the piled stones in the stream.

the river allures us next evening as well, and we are forced to ignore the strict ban of public drinking, because where else to drink our awesome botteled beer than on the river bank. good times.

saturday. hour and a half of walking to meet j., give him the keys of the apartment and say goodbye. i repeat - hour and a half, 15kg on my back, not really entertaining. goodbyes and more walking towards the hitching spot. man, why are my legs so short, this is not fair. following adventure includes about 350km to rezekne, 8 different cars (my personal favourite was a russian couple and their friend. we got tons of latvian candy, listened to stories about their daughter who's model in ny and saw her picture with conchita - good time to travel with an austrian), great hunger and a latvian countryside depression spiced by a drunk russian dad giving us advice (in russian, obviously), while bringing a cow baby home from a field with a help of his two kids. aah, sweet village life.

aaanyway. rezekne and a shelter by a local guy named tenis (i have no comment for that), pasta, skype and good night. the morning brings one of those moments, when you are forced to have a little meditation about yourself. shopping in a store, packing stuff into ky bag next to a shopping granny. at one moment she looks at me, her pupils spread and she quickly squeezes her purse. well not a lot to medidate about, marianna, you simply look like a hobo, ta-da!!

5the image of a long morning walk towards the hitching stop was saved and destroyed by mr. mans thumb, raised in a right moment (just like always) and got us our famous moustache man. one hour on a russian border and endless checks by tons of you-little-tourist-bitch looking officers. now mother (f) russia and infinite green roads towards the place to be for you and me and everybody.

x

first traces of russianness - it didn't take a lot of time after the border to spot the first 'dancer' next to the road with a bottle of vodka in his hand, tap water on the gas station smells like shit, money exchange is a fat guy sitting by the table in the corner of the gas station with a suitcase, digging change from his pockets while peeling and eating sunflower seeds and a cashier laughs when i try to explain her that i need a cup, with my limited bulgarian skills and, of course countless weird little kiosks standing next to the road and selling honey and animal fur (once i even saw a stuffed beaver). what else than - welcome to russia, newbies!

x

and a little adventure for the end - almost in moscow, about 200m before the first ring road and our driver stops. what the...? i'm waking up, not having a clue what is happening. shitload of smoke coming from the engine. a kurva. is it bad? no. moustache man, our superhero fights the engine with a fire extinguisher and we can happily get into the traffic jam! hooraaay!